I went by there again today. Do you have a favorite store or street? Shops you like to walk by—because for some reason it just makes you feel good? There are many days, while living here in Florence, that I find myself taking a ‘random’ 30 minute walk. But just like reading sites online, ordering from a menu or driving from A to B… routine happens. Familiar develops. And it is comforting… and can sometimes conjure that quintessential, knowing smile.

So it is with my favorite pattern of steps; if I go for a walk and let my feet lead me, I will tour west from my apartment (near Santa Croce), through Piazza Signoria, toward the Ponte Vecchio, then hang a quick right on Santo Spirito Apostoli—a street I love. There are little places to eat meats and cheeses, cafes for a quick macchiato, a macellaria (butcher), some beautiful buildings, my favorite ‘olive oil store’ and a window or two of interesting art and antiquities that are consistently ‘interessant.’

This time I spent 20 minutes in the store browsing—and on a cold January day when I was the only patron—was treated to a bit of serendipitous olive-oil tasting. Four spoon-fulls later, I selected an oil from La Torre (www.aziendaagricolalatorre.it). This time of year (Oct-Jan) is brilliant timing for new oil. Olives are pressed starting in October and into December. So the oil is just-pressed in these first few months. (By late summer, the oil is considered ‘old’ and used for cooking. Then people salivate while anticipating the ripening olives once again, come fall. This seasonal stuff is addicting). This olive oil shop carries some-odd 25 different olive oils, mostly from Tuscany but as the year plods along, adds more oils from all over Italy.

Which means happiness for me. I get to try olive oil from all over Tuscany, all over Italy, and pay attention to flavor profiles and new versus old… mountains versus sea… The gentleman at the store informed me that olive oil from the north part of Italy is frequently delicate and light (think mountains and shorter seasons), oil from Tuscany is very flavorful and poignant, and olive oil from southern Italy is known to be fruity and robust (hotter and longer summers, later pressings)… And so my affection for olive oil continues…

When I was about to buy, he informed me there are ‘light/delicate’ olive oils, medium olive oils and spicy (piccante) olive oils. I chose a grassy oil with a bit of a bite (considered ‘medio’). Oh yes, the picture. I also bought a nice balsamic from Modena. Oil and vinegar… need I say more?

Sigh. I have been smiling since yesterday; we went to a frantoio. A frantoio is a an olive-oil pressing facility/palazzo. It is the olive oil version of a winery. October and November represent the time frame where olives are shaken or combed off trees—into nets—and gathered for pressing.

It is when nuovo olio (new oil) shows up at outdoor markets (last week we rounded 4-5 tables in our nearby piazza, and tasted new oil from their respective olive orchards).  When tasting just-pressed oil, you are invariably enjoying seasonal flavors specific to only certain parts of the world. At the frantoio I try the oil: the flavors bring to mind wads of grass in my mouth and pepper bombarding the back of my throat. Yet I want more… it is a special treat to have just-pressed olive oil hit the top of your mouth.

Why top of your mouth? Well, in the same way you pull air into your mouth to oxidize the wine over your palate, to taste olive oil you suck in air then use your tongue to press oil to the roof of your mouth. It is how you experience the full flavor of the oil, and comprehend its flavor profile.

Our tour guide was Eleonora; she grew up on the orchard with her family. The day we were there, her grandfather was coordinating olive picking, pressing and bottling. Friends and neighbors were helping—and went home with jugs of oil. We learned a lot about olives and oil pressing that we didn’t know, and felt spoiled to have an individual tour and tasting.

We learned:

• mosquitoes are bad for olive oil (already we aren’t big fans of mosquitoes; imagine our heightened disdain); they eat the olives and too many in a given year can up [to a fault] the acidic notes in the oil.
• to taste, oil should be around 27 degrees Celsius.
• before you taste, inhale the aromas one nostril at a time (why?), to supply heightened awareness of the aroma (translation: each nostril works harder when it is on its own).
• to sip the oil, place front of tongue behind teeth and roll oil onto tongue, sucking in air while pressing tongue to roof of mouth. You are trying to pull the oil up to your roof, while avoiding the very tip of your tongue.
• Laws changed 20 years ago or so, and even small time producers of oil have to follow big producer rules. They had old oil presses for show, but had to purchase and now use new presses. Fortunately they could afford it, but it is difficult for small vendors.
• New oil is cloudy and begins to settle after 2 months; after a year it is quite clear and considered ‘old oil.’
• Old oil is used primarily for cooking, new oil is used As Is (sandwiches, salad, dipping bread, etc.).

Needless to say, it was love at first site. We bought a few bottles with promises to return soon (it is actually quite close to Florence: lucky us). And as I was getting in our little [rental] car, I decided: my new favorite color is nuovo olio. Sigh.

For your info:

Villa Torre Rossa
Via Naldino, 11
50023 Impruneta
Firenze, Italy
www.torrerossa.com

You will notice on the website, pictures of the orchard as well as recently renovated apartments (plus pool) at Villa Torre Rossa. They are managed by Eleonora, the same gal who gave us the olive oil tour & tastings. She speaks both Italian and English (and I think maybe French). I am sure it would be a treat to stay there any time of year—especially because it is in the heart of Tuscany—but I have a soft spot for the time of year when they are just picking and pressing the olives.

Seriously, does it get any better? If I was on an island and had to pick what to eat for the rest of my days, bread, olive oil and wine would go unchallenged. The island holiday would be all of that plus chocolate. All I need is a slice of artisan bread, a glass of red wine and this divine dipping sauce. It is lovely in its presentation, flavor and versatility. Use as a dip for artisan bread or raw fresh veggies, on sandwiches instead of your usual condiments or as a dressing for mixed greens, mozzarella and pasta salad.

Easily one of my favorite add-ons or quick fixes for any meal, my kids love it and can make it themselves. Admittedly, I don’t measure a lot on this one beyond the ‘few gluggs of oil’ and ‘few splashes of vinegar’; it teaches my kids independence and confidence in the kitchen when they splice this dip into a unified concoction.

Best Ever Oil & Balsamic
1/3 cup olive oil (3 good gluggs)
2 T balsamic vinegar (2 good splashes)
2-3 cloves crushed/minced garlic
Pinch of red pepper flakes
2-3 T flat leaf parsley, cut in chiffonade (or basil)

On a small plate combine ingredients, or pour into a jar or glass in advance, then dump onto plate when ready to serve. I use parsley by placing a stack of leaves between my fingers then cutting them with a scissors into a chiffonade. Cut right over plate or jar and drop in. No need to mix or shake this combination, just let it artistically weave its way around the plate (you might shake it in the jar if using as a dressing for greens or pasta salad).

For pasta salad cook shaped pasta according to package directions (make whatever amount you need for serving; assembled pasta salad will keep in fridge for a few days). Add your favorite veggies (blanched/steamed and cooled broccoli, asparagus or lightly sautéed zucchini) and toss with dressing. Sometimes this dressing is all it takes to spruce up a pile of small pearl tomatoes and mini mozzarella balls, topped with a basil chiffonade.